A few days ago, I accidentally gave myself retinol burn. If you're an avid retinol user like myself, this is something I immediately recognised and knew how to fix, but if you're not a retinol user, or if you're someone who is looking into using retinol, this might not be something you've come across.
Fear not! I'm here to tell you exactly what retinol burn is, what causes it, and most importantly, how to fix it as quickly as possible!
What is Retinol Burn?
To put it simply, retinol burn is a mild chemical reaction on the skin. I know this sounds really scary, but don't panic! Lots of skincare ingredients cause mild reactions on the skin, and retinol is one of them. Retinol works by encouraging skin cell turnover, which means it helps your skin shed old, dead cells faster to reveal fresh, new skin underneath. It also stimulates collagen production and improves skin elasticity, making it a holy grail ingredient for fighting fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven texture (seriously, when used correctly, retinol is one of my absolute FAVOURITE skincare ingredients).
However, this accelerated process can make your skin more sensitive, especially when you're first introducing retinol into your routine or if you've used too much too quickly. This is where retinol burn can come into play!
The Science Behind Retinol
If you're not interested in the fancy schmancy science behind retinol, skip this paragraph! If you love it, read on...
Retinol is a form of Vitamin A, an essential nutrient for skin health. When applied to the skin, enzymes convert retinol into retinoic acid, the active form that your skin cells can use. This process promotes cell renewal, unclogs pores, and reduces pigmentation. However, this power-packed ingredient also comes with potential side effects, particularly for those who are new to it. Retinol weakens the "glue" that holds dead skin cells together, which can sometimes compromise your skin barrier if you're not careful. A damaged skin barrier can lead to dryness, irritation, redness, and flakiness - all hallmarks of retinol burn. Oh, the joy!
What Causes Retinol Burn?
Retinol burn usually happens for a few common reasons:
Starting with a High Strength: If you're new to retinol and go straight to a high-percentage product, your skin may not be ready to handle it. This is what happened to me. I have several tubes of retinol of different strengths; I accidentally used the strongest stuff (the one I typically reserve for my arms, as retinol is amazing at clearing up keratosis pilaris) on my face. Queue the most diabolical skin itching and dryness I've ever experienced!
Using Too Much Product: With retinol, LESS IS MORE. I cannot emphasize this enough. A pea-sized amount is generally sufficient for your entire face.
Applying Retinol Too Frequently: Introducing retinol to your routine too quickly (i.e. using it every night right away) can overwhelm your skin. Even when my skin is adapting really well, I never use it 7 nights a week.
Skipping Moisturiser: Retinol can dry out your skin, so skipping hydrating steps can make matters worse. It's really, really important you have a good arsenal of amazing hydrating moisturisers (ideally fluff-free and with no fragrance etc) to keep the skin's barrier in tip-top condition.
Ignoring Sun Protection: Retinol increases skin sensitivity to UV rays, and without sunscreen, your skin becomes more prone to irritation and damage. I wear SPF every single day, even when I'm not using retinol. It's one of the best things you can do for your skin!
How to Fix Retinol Burn
Ok, here's the part you've probably been waiting for! If you’ve found yourself with irritated, sensitive skin after using retinol, don’t worry - there are steps you can take to soothe and repair your skin effectively. Here's what I've been doing:
1. Stop Using Retinol Temporarily IMMEDIATELY
Put your retinol product on pause until your skin has calmed down. Continuing to use it will only worsen the irritation.
2. Hydrate and Moisturise
Your skin barrier needs all the help it can get to recover. Look for products with ingredients like:
Hyaluronic Acid: To replenish moisture.
Ceramides: To strengthen the skin barrier.
Glycerin: To draw water into the skin.
Niacinamide: To strengthen the skin barrier, improve hydration, and reduce redness.
Avoid products with fragrances or active ingredients like AHAs, BHAs, or Vitamin C, which will only further irritate your skin.
3. Apply a Barrier Cream
Barrier creams or ointments (think petrolatum-based products like Aquaphor, CeraVe Healing Ointment, or even good ol' fashioned Vaseline) can lock in moisture and protect your skin as it heals.
4. Use a Cold Compress
My retinol burn left me with some seriously bad itching on the first day. If your skin feels hot or inflamed, a cold compress can provide instant relief. I also took an antihistamine.
5. Skip Exfoliation
Even if your skin feels dry and flaky, avoid the temptation to exfoliate!! This will only exacerbate the irritation.
I was lucky that my reaction happened over the weekend, so I didn't need to wear foundations or make-up. If you can't avoid going out with retinol burn, though, make sure to hydrate the skin, then use a barrier cream before applying a light, dewy coverage (avoid anything matte as it will stick to the dry patches like crazy!)
6. Protect Your Skin from the Sun
Never skip sunscreen, especially when your skin is sensitised. Choose a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher and reapply throughout the day. I LOVE this Avene SPF 50 for Sensitive Skin one as it also has a lovely coverage.
7. Introduce Soothing Ingredients
Look for products with calming ingredients like:
Aloe Vera (I used a 100% aloe vera face mask on the day it was really hot and itchy)
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
Panthenol (Pro-vitamin B5)
Colloidal Oatmeal
8. Reintroduce Retinol Sloooowly
Once your skin has healed completely, you can start using retinol again, but this time, ease into it:
Use it 1–2 times a week to start.
Mix a small amount of retinol with your moisturiser to dilute its potency.
Gradually increase frequency as your skin builds tolerance.
When to Seek Professional Help
If your skin doesn’t improve after a week of following these steps, or if you experience severe pain, swelling, or peeling, consult a dermatologist. They can recommend prescription-strength products or treatments to help your skin recover safely.
And that's it! By now, you're possibly wondering why anyone would go through all this hassle, but retinol is one of the few ingredients that makes a genuine, noticeable difference to the skin. It got rid of all my blemishes, gave me the most beautiful, smooth skin, and has even helped reduce the appearance of my freckles. It's really worth a go, but you have to be serious about it as, as you can see, it does have some drawbacks if you're not careful with it! Melissa x
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