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The Art of Ancient Chinese Skincare Technique, Gua Sha - Does It Really Work? (And How-To!)

Writer's picture: Melissa KeenMelissa Keen

We've all probably heard of gua sha, but how much do we actually understand about it - and does it actually work?


The History of Gua Sha


Gua sha is not just a trendy skincare hack; it’s a practice deeply rooted in traditional Chinese medicine (TCM). Dating back thousands of years, gua sha (pronounced ‘gwa-shah’) translates roughly to ‘scrape sand’ or ‘scraping bruises.’ Historically, it was used as a healing technique to alleviate pain, reduce inflammation, and promote circulation. The method involved using tools to scrape the skin until redness (or ‘sha’) appeared, which practitioners believed indicated the release of stagnant energy, or ‘qi' (pronounced 'chi').


While modern gua sha has been adapted for gentler use in skincare, its underlying principles remain the same: improving circulation, releasing tension, and supporting the body’s natural detoxification processes.


Sounds pretty great, right?


Why Has Gua Sha Become So Popular?


In recent years, gua sha has gone from being a niche wellness technique to a global skincare sensation. Part of this popularity stems from its holistic approach. Gua sha offers a simple, affordable way to enhance your skincare routine while also carving out a moment of mindfulness in a busy day. It’s not just about smoother skin; it’s about taking a moment to connect with yourself. It also helps that celebs including Elle McPherson, Gwyneth Paltrow, Kendall Jenner, Romee Strijd, and Emilia Clarke have said they have implement gua sha into their daily routines (and it's a very aesthetic practice that looks great on the insta grid!)


But does it actually work? Science is catching up with anecdotal evidence. Studies suggest that gua sha can improve blood circulation and lymphatic drainage, which can reduce puffiness, ease tension, and brighten the complexion. While it’s not a miracle cure for wrinkles or acne, regular use can certainly enhance your skin’s overall health.


Gua Sha Tools: Choosing the Right One


Gua sha tools come in various shapes and materials, each with its own benefits. The tool you choose can impact your experience, so let’s break it down:


Jade


Jade is the most traditional gua sha material. Known for its cooling properties and durability, jade has long been associated with balance, harmony, and calm. It’s believed to help reduce puffiness and bring a sense of grounded energy to your practice. If you’re a beginner, jade is a fantastic starting point.


Rose Quartz


Rose quartz is often called the ‘stone of love,’ associated with compassion and self-care. It has a naturally soothing energy and is said to promote healing and emotional well-being. This stone is ideal if your gua sha routine is part of a relaxing, self-love ritual.


Amethyst


Amethyst is all about stress relief. This beautiful purple crystal is believed to help calm the mind and dispel negative energy. It’s a wonderful option if you’re looking to incorporate gua sha into your wind-down routine after a stressful day.


Clear Quartz


Clear quartz, often referred to as the ‘master healer,’ is known for its ability to amplify energy and intention. It’s believed to bring clarity and focus, making it a great choice for those who want their gua sha practice to have an extra layer of mindfulness. Clear quartz tools can also help with balancing the skin’s energy and enhancing your overall sense of well-being.


Bian Stone


Bian stone tools are less common but highly revered in TCM. These tools are made from a composite of minerals and are thought to carry therapeutic properties that enhance circulation and detoxification. They’re a bit heavier and offer a deeper massage, ideal for those with more experience.


A Step-by-Step Guide to Gua Sha


Here’s a simple how-to guide to get you started:


Prep Your Skin: Begin with clean skin. Apply a generous amount of facial oil or serum to ensure the tool glides smoothly over your face without pulling or tugging. (I use the award-winning Hayo’u Method Face Oil, £45, with the Hayo’u Method Jade Gua Sha tool, £20.)




Start at the Neck: Begin with your neck, using upward strokes to encourage lymphatic drainage. Always work in an upward and outward motion.


Move to the Jawline: Use the tool’s curved edge to glide along your jawline from the centre of your chin to your ear. This helps to release tension and define your jaw.



Cheeks and Cheekbones: Use the flatter side of the tool to sweep across your cheeks and cheekbones, starting at the side of your nose and moving outwards. You can also use the curved edge to define the cheekbone.


Forehead: Use long, slow strokes upwards from your brows to your hairline. This helps to smooth and relax the muscles.



Finish with the Brows: Use the notched edge of your tool to follow the curve of your brow, applying light pressure to relieve tension.


Clean Your Tool: Wash your gua sha tool with warm water and gentle soap after each use to keep it hygienic.


Tips for Success


  • Consistency is Key: Gua sha works best when done regularly. Aim for a few minutes a day or a longer session a couple of times a week.

  • Be Gentle: You don’t need to press hard. Let the tool do the work with light to medium pressure.

  • Listen to Your Skin: If an area feels particularly tense or tender, spend a little extra time there, but don’t overdo it.


Is Gua Sha for You?


If you’re looking for a simple, effective way to elevate your skincare routine while also nurturing your overall well-being, gua sha is absolutely worth a try. It’s a beautiful blend of ancient tradition and modern self-care that’s accessible to everyone.


While it's definitely got a more spiritual element to it, it's also a great, practical way to care for your skin while having some me-time. I love to do it while sat in front of the TV at the end of the day as it helps me wind down. Rather than expecting immediate results, you should try do it for the calming, relaxing nature of the massage, and for longer-term benefits.


Definitely worth a go if you haven't tried it already!


Melissa x



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